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I took the Cathay Pacific red-eye from Hong Kong and despite not realizing I needed a visa to eneter the country, dropping my mobile phone in a glass of water, thereby destroying the phone and my contact list a mere hour before I boarded the plane, and staying at barco long enough that I barely made the flight - they literally closed the door as I got on.
My first stop was Melbourne, which I was told had a Seattle/Portland feel. While I only spent two days there I did get to wander through a funky low-key neighborhood somewhere around Brunswick and Fitzroy. I had the best bread and dip plate of my life (a little dramatic, but true) and created a big kitsch shopping regret – see the inset photo and you'll know what I mean.
Why didn't I buy this fantastic handbag? Yes, I'm serious.
On Sunday, I met a friend from Hong Kong, now living in Melbourne, and headed out of town. I should probably mention that I rented a car, creating my first experience with a car that was built “the other way”. I really was very good; except for hitting curbs and constantly turning on the windshield wipers instead of the turn signal. Other than that -- very good.
We stopped at some surf shops and then headed to Anglesea, where the beaches were unbelievable. I spent the next four hours standing in the water, ducking waves, or lying on the beach. I did suffer form the famous Australian sunburn the next day, but it was worth it. On our way back to the city, we stopped by a local golf course that was literally overrun with kangaroo – which I understand now to be the deer of Australia.
Anglesea -- amazing beaches!
I wonder what this kangaroos handicap is?
On Monday, I hopped on a Quantas flight to Sydney. I took the train into the city (a mistake – it’s much easier to take a cab – and a cab saves you the uncomfortable and aimless wanderings of a tourist with heavy luggage). Eventually I got dropped off at “luxury sport car rental world” (catchy name!) in Kings Cross. I had decided to spend a few days wine tasting through Hunter Valley in a convertible.
I put the top down of the little Z4 – okay, okay, I know it’s a bit pretentious – but totally worth it mind you. The drive itself was beautiful as I found myself up and down highway carved out of mountains, the rock forming marbleized walls on either side of the three lanes. And to the West I got the first glimpse of the Blue Mountains. Once off the main highway, everything I had envisioned about this part of my vacation started to take shape; rolling hills, lots of land, vineyards and small one street towns.
I arrived at Peppers Guesthouse about two hours after leaving the city. It was a cluster of yellow farmhouses sitting on a mass of land. The setting was lovely but did feel a little bit like a time warp. While checking in, I talked my way into getting the room from the brochure, which sat in a wing that was currently closed. But I was glad I pushed when I got there and saw the veranda and the view down a long hill that ended at a lake. (you can see the picture inset)
That night I ate dinner at Chez Pok. While the food was excellent, I couldn’t help but laugh. I had willingly put myself in the most romantic restaurant I could imagine; wrought iron tables, vines, candlelight. And that wasn’t lost on anyone; the place was full of couples! There was a little awkwardness with the book and the candle as I sorted the two so I could occupy myself through the dinner. I suppose the food made up for the woefully single state I found myself in.
My day of wine tasting was fantastic. I kept a map in the car but basically let myself get lost. I pulled into any vineyards that looked good to me; which tended to be the small and boutique. The only danger of wine tasting and driving were the over friendly pours that vineyards gave a chatty solo visitor. I always seemed to get more than what was listed. I was fine, but coupled with Australia's “drive safely and don;t die” campaign, I got a bit paranoid. It's no wonder with signs along the road like “slow down…..it won’t kill you”, and “open your eyes….exhaustion kills”. (Side-note -- they also have a "don't smoke and don't die" campiagn that has images of kids on oxygen, gangrene toes, corrugated arteries, and blackened post-op lungs.) So after 6 vineyards I called it a day and headed back to the guesthouse for romantic night #2. Aaahh amore.
Site of my romantic dinners...... for one.
On Wednesday morning I headed back to Sydney. I took a scenic route back that had me on dirt roads and a practically Appalachian market/bar/restaurant/petrol pump in the middle of nowhere. I discovered that any trip to the zoo or dairy farm I had ever taken provided no smell as bad as chicken farms that sell “poultry dung” by the bag on the side of the road. It was a little rough to get stuck driving that long road on a hundred degree day with the top down.
I checked into the Establishment in The Rocks at around four; my room was perfect – it even had a huge free standing marble bath tub. Since I don’t have a bathtub at home anyomore – and I’ve always been a bath junkie, it was a god send!
A few months before the trip I had received an e-mail form an old friend who had moved to Sydney, so on my first night I met him for dinner. He has a plush little ex-pat apartment in Woolloomooloo surrounded by great restaurants and bars. (Side note -- a few nights later in the same neighborhood I would end up eating at a table next to Russell Crow, who apparently lived nearby and is always around. He’s not as big as I imagined -- they never are-- but did look exactly like what you would expect).
Thursday was the day I devoted to tourist spots and I did all the appropriate things; harbor tour, Taronga Zoo and opera house pics. That night I ordered an Aussie platter at a restaurant with a bridge view. It had kangaroo on it. (Quick culinary note, it tastes like Venison).
no mom, that's not a cigarette....I swear
Taronga Zoo -- where they're very nice to foreignors. The kangaroos were given shit views.
Friday I took a jet-cat to Manley beach and boarded a bus North, ending up in DeWey on a gorgeous expanse of white beach littered with seaweed and surfers. Sightseeing in Sydney must include surfers. I pretty much spent the afternoon objectifying men. It was great I talked to a few guys, one in particular named Todd. I had to keep reminding myself to look up form the abs and into the eyes. I felt like such a guy! That night I tagged along with my friend to a dance party – let’s just say the crowd really enjoyed those gay anthems like “100% Pure” and “If you believe”. Did I mention that Australia is on another planet – a 1990’s era planet – when it comes to music.
DeWey Beach -- home of really hot surfers.
On Saturday my friend took me to Paddington market which felt like a cross between Portland’s Saturday market and a good London flea market – I bought a dress I would have never purchased in a store (it kind of has a Goldie Hawn “Laugh-In” vibe to it.) We then went to Coogee beach – which was unbelievable. The rock pools are so worth the trip. Simply put; it’s nature at its best! That night I did dinner with some of his friends and co-workers and rounded out the evening with some quality karaoke (I pretty much find a way to karaoke in every country I visit).
My final day I dedicated to Bondi Beach. Unfortunately it was pouring rain, so there was absolutely no beach time to be had. I met up with another old acquaintance. A guy I had gone to high school with, had seen a few scattered times at family Christmas parties and weddings, and whose mother was good friends with mine. It was actually great – nice to meet someone you’ve always known, but never "knew". He had the most ridiculous apartment; too big for one person, 700 square feet of patio with fold open doors from the living room overlooking the whole of Bondi Beach. Incredible.
Sadly Monday was my departure day, and it was awful to leave. I will say the place got into me a bit. Don’t be surprised if when I get antsy to move again in a few years I happen to end up in the Land of Oz.
